Jessamyn's Regency Costume Companion: Women's Underwear Patterns

~ Women's Underthings Patterns ~

The lowdown on the patterns available for women's Regency underthings and how to use them.



Shifts and Petticoats.

Kannik's Korner 1790-1820 Shift. A simple, period-accurate undergarment for almost any period or class of the Regency.

Price: $10.

What You Get: A well-researched shift pattern that will fit comfortably under almost any Regency gown.
  • Shift pattern with drawstring neckline, short sleeves, and underarm gores for ease of movement.
  • Optional wider sleeve pattern.
  • Claims to be based on original cutting directions, with construction techniques from several extant garments.
  • Includes sizes XS-S-M-L-XL-2X-3X.

What's Good
  • Accurate design, period construction--and looks comfortable.
  • One should always wear some type of shift under any Regency garment, and this should fit easily and not show.
  • Straightforward design should be easy to make.
  • I've heard positive things about Kannik's Korner patterns.

Caveats
  • I haven't used this pattern, so I can't speak for it personally.

Bottom Line: Recommended. Very period-appropriate and should be easy to make, although I don't have personal experience with it.



Bodiced petticoat made by Sense & Sensibility from the La Mode pattern.
La Mode Bagatelle's Regency Wardrobe: Bodiced Petticoat Pattern. Part of the La Mode package described on other pages, this is an all-purpose undergarment.

Price: About $50 for the whole package.

What You Get: As part of a wardrobe of patterns, a petticoat with attached boned bodice.
  • Low-cut sleeveless bodice pattern, tight-fitting and boned, with drawstring neckline.
  • 2 skirt patterns.
  • All sizes in one package, including separate DD pieces.

What's Good
  • Makes a convenient, all-purpose, one-piece undergarment.
  • Skimpy bodice won't show under gown.
  • Works like a corset for the bust, but is more comfortable.
  • Essentially free, if you're buying the La Mode pattern anyway.

Caveats
  • This is not a period-correct design; the pattern-makers invented it as a convenient shortcut--although if you don't bone the bodice and make it a size larger than usual (for a looser fit), it's near accurate for about 1815-1825.
  • If you're not the right shape, it may not fit well. Small-busted women may tend to slip down below the bodice, and large-busted women may fall out the top!

Bottom Line: Recommended With Caution. If you're already buying the pattern, go ahead and try this instead of a corset--but be aware it may not work right for you. Or make it loose, as a fairly accurate 1810s-20s undergarment.


Corset Patterns.


The Mantua Maker's 1800-1820 Corset Pattern. Mantua-Maker patterns can be difficult but seem to give good results.

Price: About $11.

What You Get: A long, straight, bust-supporting Regency corset.
  • Removable busk ties into place at bottom front.
  • Straps are cut as a piece with the back, lace onto the top front.
  • "Riding option" (one of the bottom gores on each side is replaced with an open, laced area for ease of movement) is included.
  • Multisized 2-24.

What's Good
  • Period-correct details include front busk, straps that lace to top front, gusset construction.
  • Long, straight-up-and-down Regency styling gives great posture while still allowing you to breathe.
  • Many women (myself included) find a corset in some ways more comfortable than a bra--the support is smooth and even, not digging in under the bust.
  • Large size range in one pattern.

Caveats
  • Mantua-Maker patterns are a bit complicated, and stays often require a bit of fitting knowledge, so don't take this on as your first sewing project!
  • Regency stays fastened only in the back, so you'll have to get someone to help you dress. And the busk will prevent bending at the waist.
  • I don't know of anyone who's tried this particular pattern (let me know if you have!).

Bottom Line: Recommended With Caution for intermediate and above sewers. Looks quite period-accurate and is well-priced.



Past Patterns' 1820s-1840s Corded Stays Pattern. Past Patterns are well-drafted, reliable, and historically correct.

Price: About $12.

What You Get: A long, semi-straight, late-Regency through 1840s corset.
  • Removable busk ties into place at bottom front.
  • Straps can either be cut as part of the front and back pieces, or as part of the back pieces only and laced onto the top front.
  • Moderate shaping with gussets and quilting.
  • Multisized 10-20.

What's Good
  • Period-correct details include front busk (with intensive history and instructions), two strap variations, gusset construction, and intensive quilting.
  • Moderate gusseting most nearly matches a natural shape, making this a more comfortable corset.
  • Past Patterns are taken directly from original garments but resized for modern figures; they include great historical notes, have comprehensible instructions, and go together well.

Caveats
  • You'll be quilting till the cows come home.
  • You may want to find a substitute material for the busk, unless you're good at woodworking.

Bottom Line: Recommended for intermediate and above sewers. Period-accurate for late Regency, well-priced, and a great company.


Stocking and Pocket Patterns.


Kannik's Korner Stockings, Pockets & Mitts Pattern. Well-researched patterns for those almost-forgotten accessories. Pockets were fabric pouches tied to the waist under the skirt and reached through pocket holes (slits in the skirt); largely out of style for the upper classes by the Regency, they were still worn by older women and the lower classes.

Price: About $8.

What You Get: A multisize pattern for stockings, a one-size pattern for mitts, and patterns for pockets of different periods.
  • Pattern for stockings to be made of knitted cloth or bias-cut linen.
  • Instructions for custom-fitting included.
  • Pattern for mitts to be made of bias-cut linen.
  • Five patterns for pocket styles; two are late-18th-century and, while out of style in the Regency, would still have been used by older or poorer women.
  • Multisized S-M-L-XL-2X-3X.

What's Good
  • Period-correct construction for serious reenactors.
  • Multisizing and fitting instructions make for a good fit (although remember that they won't fit like modern spandex stockings!).

Caveats
  • As Regency items, these would have been more for middle and lower-class women.
  • This is a lot of work for stockings that barely show.

Bottom Line: Recommended for serious reenactors. Period-accurate, hard-to-find items for early Regency.



Period Impressions Pocket and Caps pattern. If you're a married woman or a spinster (a la Jane Austen), you should wear a white linen or cotton cap most of the time, for day wear at least. This pattern combines those useful items with pockets.

Price: About $8.50.

What You Get: Patterns for three styles of day caps and a pocket.
  • Patterns for two fitted caps that tie under the chin.
  • Pattern for a cap with lappets (those hanging pieces).
  • Pattern for a pocket.

What's Good
  • Two useful types of item in one package.
  • Simple to make.
  • Reasonably priced.

Caveats
  • I haven't used these patterns.
  • Young and stylish women won't have a need for these items.

Bottom Line: Recommended for those portraying married women or spinsters.


Pantalet Patterns.


The Mantua-Maker's 1800-1830 Pantalets Pattern. Underthings for the fashionable Regency woman.

Price: About $8.

What You Get: A multisize pattern for Regency pantalets.
  • Pattern Regency pantalets with separate legs, open crotch, and ribbon fastening.
  • Ideas for variations included.

What's Good
  • Strange though it looks to the modern eye, this is period-correct construction.
  • Should be fairly simple to make.

Caveats
  • Unless you're a devoted reenactor, you may find it uncomfortable to wear crotchless clothing.
  • These are fairly simple; you could probably fake them pretty well without a pattern.

Bottom Line: Recommended for serious reenactors who want a pattern to rely on. Period-accurate, hard-to-find garment for mid-to-late Regency.


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